Tuscan Traditions: Pasta Making

I love getting my hands dirty. Today’s pleasure, making fresh pasta was particularly special.

It’s day 4 at Potentino. There is a spear of sunshine coming through the kitchen. This morning, Rachel Roddy, food enthusiast and writer behind An A to Z in Pasta, and she  is telling us about how pasta making is all about child's play.

She is cheery. A tall, curly hair, freckled skin, British lady who has spent 16 years of her life in Rome. She is a striking presence at the castle. Her speech is quick, with bursts of Italian. 

She is showing us the flour divide between Northern and Southern Italy. Another rivalry between North and South. Flour is the key ingredient for pasta making. Puglia, Calabria, Campania, they go for semolina flour, or durum wheat flour. A granular, sandy, fine ingredient that slips through your fingers. On the contrary, Toscana, Lombardia, Veneto, they use a velvety, teddy bear like soft flour, the regular all purpose wheat flour we all know.

It really is simple. You add 200 gr of either flour and 100 ml of water for a semolina flour recipe (or 2 eggs for a soft flour recipe), and you’ve got all the ingredients for pasta for two. As Rachel shows us how to proceed, she tells us how her family likes to think of the process, a flour mountain that turns into a volcano, with the water and/ or the eggs as craters. Mix all the ingredients up, and suddenly you find you have playdough in your hands. 

What follows isn’t quite as much fun, but you need to knead. 10 minutes of pushing down, pulling out, folding and turning in. Thankfully, I like to do hands-on work.

The dough, a soft but sturdy ball with all the tenderness of a baby's bottom, is now ready to rest. 30 minutes are key for the gnoccho (the dough) to rise, and as I listen to others talk about what pasta shapes will be made for lunch, I take a moment to observe my surroundings. 

We are in a kitchen that is more than 700 years old. Maids, servers, owners and friends, guests and volunteers have passed through this kitchen over the centuries, and have made this little universe their own. There’s a wooden cabinet that particularly draws my attention, full of mix & match glass and kitchenware. I made a note to myself to speak to Charlotte, the owner of Potentino, to tell me more about this room.

The timer is ringing. It’s time to shape the pasta. We practice our beginner skills by exploring the pleasures of forms, from classics such as the orecchiette (little ears) to experimental freeform. We are quickly drawn back from pleasure to work though, as lunch time is getting closer and today we are cooking for 20 people. 

The shape of choice for lunch is pici. To get this shape, we pinch about 2-3 inches of the dough and turn it into a thick, long and fat hand-rolled type of spaghetti. This shape, Rachel tells us, originated in Siena, Tuscany. All of a sudden, I am transported to traditions in the valley. Traditions of wine making, growing vegetables without fertilizers, weaving wool from the neighboring sheep farm. Traditions that Potentino is resolutely trying to keep alive. 

Our pasta making work is done, and as we wait for the pici to cook, we move from the kitchen to the dining room. There’s an air of excitement and anticipation (and hunger) in the room. We are all hoping the result of our hard work will be good. Is it going to taste as good as it felt when we were preparing it? Will our beginners pasta survive the cooking? Will everybody like it?

Sometimes actions speak louder than words and as guests have a bite of the fresh pasta, paired with roasted tomatoes passata, olive oil and basil, I only need to see their faces to know the answer. Delicioso! 

The hard work we put in this morning has been a success. One that I am hoping to repeat at home. And I hope you will, too. 

TCB xx

Tuscan Traditions: Making Pecorino

True ricotta is a delicacy many Italians sought after. Its limited availability, combined with the benefits of low fat, high protein and multipurpose use, makes ricotta the cherry on top of any  cheese making, and in particular, of our cheese making class today. 

‘Best eaten hot’ Luisa tells us, so I obey orders and eat a few mouthfuls. She’s right, one bite of this warm, rubbery cheese, and I can’t put my spoon down. It’s a very intimate feeling, as if I am inside the sheep’s body, and its fresh milk is now directly in my mouth. The right amount of salty and light that makes you want to come back for more.

There’s a particular beauty in seeing others making something in front of your eyes. 

Luisa is in charge of the cheese making class. She seems nervous at the prospect of explaining to us how the process goes. There is a German beauty in her blue eyes and soft skin, and as she tells us in perfect English the story of the family business, one can tell she is a very kind and friendly soul. Emiliano, her husband, is staring at her in the background. He is a bit shy I feel, mostly because he can’t speak English with us today. 

As I see them both in action, there are so many welcoming thoughts at the idea of making food from scratch. Grandma making croquetas in their flat near Park Guell. Dad and I making a spanish omelette as our Sunday dinner tradition or my uncle’s David famous St Johns Day cake, something that the whole family waits for every year.

Like making tortilla, traditional cheese making is a special craft. One that has been passed through generations. The end result is surprisingly never the same, as cheese made this way never tastes the same twice. 

At this point Luisa also names Giuseppe, her father in-law and the main figure of the family business, a few times. Despite his absence, we sense his presence very clearly. He started the business, and on top of being a fantastic shepherd, he was also a novelist, a poet, and of course, a great Italian lover. 

Emiliano, on the contrary, seems a man of actions more than words. I am proven right as he shows us the first step of cheese making, getting the ravaggiolo, a curdled cheese that kids and adults alike often enjoy for dessert. 

A bite of this silky and sweet cheese takes me back to summer holidays in Costa Brava in Catalonia, where I would find myself eating a very similar dessert called recuit every lunch after our daily family swim. The slippery taste of this dessert makes you feel so light, you would never stop eating it. If you ever are in that part of town, don’t ever leave without trying it, specially with a splash of honey.

As I look away from my treat, I see Luisa and Emiliano are already working on keeping the momentum going. The process of cheese making cannot be stopped and one of them has now started crossing and crushing the remaining cheese in the pot. Crossing the cheese, because in Tuscan tradition, it is blessed in the making. 

The pot is now at forty degrees to shape what will be the final product, a soft pecorino cheese. It is hard to believe one could take such heat in their hands, Luisa jokes whilst she cheekily looks at Emiliano: ´he can handle the heat´. Emiliano is not happy about the induction hob, he prefers gas, but with a smile on his face he tells us that heat makes his skin incredibly soft, so clearly worth the pain.

One would think once the cheese has been shaped, we just need to leave it to rest, but to my surprise there’s one more step to go, making ricotta. As we say in Spanish, there’s never two without three, and the last step is the most precious to Italians. 

As we now leave the cheese to rest, we are guided to our dininng table. 

Now picture you are in a Medieval Tuscan castle.

Imagine the loggia of such Medieval castle. Luisa and Emiliano are finishing making fresh cheese in it. 

There’s  a certain freshness in the air. The seasons are changing, the wind is blowing strongly, and we are happy to be sun kissed and have our lunch al fresco. 

Luisa and Emiliano have prepared a little cheese tasting for us, and as we wait for it with excitement, I hear them talk about the origins of the farm, Caseificio Murceti, with other guests. I can´t wait to visit them at their farm. 

I may not be able to replicate all the steps of cheese making that we learned today, but something became clear to me this morning and is that the best traditions can be kept alive through generations, and we can consider ourselves lucky to ever witness such marvels in front of us.

TCB xx

Potentino, a walk through living traditions

´Italy has given me so much, I ought to do the same’, Charlotte tells me.

She is the owner of Castello di Potentino, an ancient castle dating from the 10th century and hidden within Monte Amiato, in the heart of the Tuscan Valley. 

It was only 30 minutes since I met Charlotte that I knew she was a strong and determined woman. A tall, straight short hair lady with striking blue eye glasses. Very Italian style I would say, despite herself being British. It’s been 30 years since she moved to Italy and she’s been cultivating and nurturing the lay of the Tuscan land ever since.

‘We had a previous home, but we sold it and bought this ruined castle’. It is clear this medieval beast is her biggest passion and personal project. A once crumbled castle now turned into a living palace to restore Etruscan traditions. I couldn’t think of a better idea. 

Potentino is special. 

We arrived here on a dark and eerie night, and we thought we had got lost. Google Drive was telling us we were a minute away from our destination, but there were no signs of Potentino in any direction. Suddenly, there it was. Low lid yet showing its grandeur, rustic stone walls facing us. Cersei and Otto, the house dogs, welcomed us at the entrance and shortly after, somebody opened the door. Hello, you found us! 

We were greeted, and our story began.  

As we walk into this long-lived estate, I get quickly captivated by the amount of art, books and crockery laying around. One can tell that many have passed through Potentino, and the house still captures its passing stories. Publishers, artists, filmmakers and musicians, they all have lived and left a piece of history here. 

Traditions of wine and olive oil making, which were common in the area since almost 3000 years ago, are also alive at Potentino. I’ve been told that thanks to the golden valley that is Monte Amiato, we are in a highly fertile, volcanic area, which has gifted Potentino with a variety of wines. 

One evening before dinner, we are lucky to get a VIP pass. We tried not one but eight different wines from Charlotte’s latest batch. From easy drinking pinot noir rose to dense red San Giovese. It was a kaleidoscopic experience.

And it doesn’t end here, Charlotte is determined to keep the Etruscan heritage alive and she is set on being kind to the planet whilst at it, aiming for zero waste and respecting the local community. 

As days go by in this fairy tale fortress, we experience farmers from the neighboring town make cheese in front of us, cheese that we eat for lunch; polyphonic singers enjoying Potentino wine whilst chanting Etruscan songs and songs from World War I, and acclaimed food writers teaching us how to make and write about pasta and the joys of life. We are enduring the beauty of Tuscany and its unconventional history.

As I write to you, the sun is shining and my body feels heavy, despite a light breeze passing through. I can feel my soft skin burning, and the seasons changing. The leaves are dancing like shining diamonds changing color under a beaming light. Potentino is in the background, and I already feel part of its tales, too. 

A Road Trip Through Sicily

 

If you are reading this post is because you are thinking about travelling to Italy and are wondering what route is best to do a roadtrip in Sicily. The answer? It doesn’t matter! Whether you head north to Palermo or south to Catania, you are guaranteed going to have a delightful time.

Now, if you are into beautiful beaches, relax and good food, then the northern side of the island will be better suited for you. If you would like to add some culture and history to the mix, then the southern side will be best.

We did our own research before starting our trip and the northern side of the island tends to get more tourism. We are rebels who like to go against the current, so we voted for a southern roadtrip full of culture, history, great food, and great nature (and of course, some beaches too!).

Thinking you would like to do the same roadtrip?

Then check below for our 2-week itinerary here!

24 hours in Palermo

You may have read that if you want to do a Sicilian roadtrip you must choose between visiting the northern side or the southern side as otherwise it is too much to fit in very little time. We agree. However, there are many flights to Catania and when ours got cancelled last minute, we had to act quickly or cancel our holidays all together.

Truth is, things turned out for the best. We ended travelling to Palermo before starting our southern roadtrip and we loved it so much that we would suggest you do this too.

Palermo is the capital of Sicily and it is full of history. From the Romans to the Spanish, to the history of mafia, there’s a lot to talk about in this city. As newbies, we decided to talk a Free Walking tour (this one here) and we couldn’t recommend it enough. The guide was very lively and gave us lots of tips on where to eat and what else to do. Our favorite spot was the Piazza of Quatro cantos and all its symbolism, along with the Cattedrale de Palermo. Do not miss these out.

Our favorite comfort food was eaten at Caffe del Kassaro and the best cocktails were drunk at Galleria delle Vittorie

Our favorite Gelati was eaten at Cappadonia Gelati

Our favorite shop was Coffee Panormus, where you can stock up on beautiful ceramics and handmade Sicilian Coffa Bags.

3 days in Agrigento (2 Nights)

Agrigento is very cute. Tourists tend to spend one night here as there is not much to do other than visiting the Valley of the temples, but we loved giving this old village more time to be explored so we would recommend you doing the same.

We arrived after lunch and decided to visit the Agrigento’s old village. The highlight was the nun’s monastery where you can buy some homemade pistachio and nut cookies that are to die for. You can then head to the Turkish steps, a white cliff beach, for an afternoon dip. Warning: as the rock has started to become lose, the government has blocked entry to this area. However! We saw plenty of Italians passing over the fence and so we followed them and had a pleasant time in what was pretty much a desert beach. Bottom line, be careful, but go ahead and visit the area. We then packed our stuff and had a well deserved Aperol Spritz whilst seeing the sun set at Lounge Beach Bar few steps away.

The next day was all about the Valley of the Temples. You’ll need about 3-4 hours to do it, so make sure you have a hat with you and plenty of water as it gets hot in here! We also recommend getting a guide or the audio guide, it was very explanatory and worth its 5€ cost.

To wrap up, we had an excellent restful time at Masseria Agnello, a farmhouse of dreams (I would get married there!) before heading for another sunset at Giardonello Beach

Best dinner time in Agrigento was at Sal8 and best pizza at Trattoria Terra&Mare but if you want breathtaking views of the Valley of the Temple and a Michelin-guide restaurant, then we recommend Il Re di Girgenti (wow!!).

Our favorite Gelati was eaten at Le Cuspidi

We stayed at B&B Le Terraze di Pirandello and it was central, with a beautiful rooftop and a yummy breakfast (included in the price). If you are ready to splash the Hotel Athena is breathtaking, but you will be far away from the city center!

4 days in Modica (3 Nights)

Modica is a dreamy ancient villa where old is already meeting new. In here, not only you’ll find out about how the Sicilians make chocolate (that is, using a method dating back to the Aztecs), but also incredible home made food, Michelin-star restaurants, cheap and cheerful wine and cocktail bars and the most incredible baroque cathedral in Southern Sicily, Il Duomo di San Giorgio.

We stayed at B&B Il Giardino dei Mandarini and we couldn’t recommend it enough. Affordable prices, a big room and an excellent breakfast overlooking a beautifully green patio, where you’ll chat to an old Italian chap who serves you breakfast every morning. What else could you ask for? Also location is great, near to our favorite wine bar Rappa Enoteca (side note: the food is also great).

On our way from Agrigento to Modica we had a pit stop at Villa Romana del Casale, a Roman villa that keeps the largest and most varied Roman mosaics in the world. It’s a 20-min detour from your route, but so worth it.

On our first full day in Modica, we decided to explore the beach and headed to Marina di Modica, where we had a relaxing lunch at Modica Beach Resort. One our way back, we visited Scicli. Scicli is another town renown for its baroque architecture. Similarly to Modica and Ragusa, its beauty is palpable all over the city, but is at its best in the churches. If you are into fashion and gelati like I am, then you’ll love this town. Probably the best when it comes to Italian fashion in the island and Nivera was a fantastic choice for icecream :)

One our second day in Modica, we decided to venture out to Chiaramonte Gulfi, based on Lonely Planet’s recommendation. However, we didn’t find anything interesting here. The only thing worth noting about this town is its garden overlooking the vast fields and the winery Locanda Gulfi, 10 minutes drive away from the city. The food and service there were excellent, and so was the wine tasting (3 wines for 15€!) and the subsequent stay at the pool overlooking the vineyard.

Ragusa was our last stop on day 4 and definitely the most breathtaking. It is an exceptional town and a MUST on your trip. This village has 18 sites that are UNESCO Heritage and walking around its ancient streets is like re-living its past. We parked the car in the newer part of Ragusa, and started our walking path from Cattedrale di San Giovanni Batista up to Giardini Ibla.

The view of the old Ragusa along this path was spectacular (with some GoT vibes) and the food we proceeded to have for lunch at Camuri even more. Unpretentious and delicious food and 5-star service. Drinks were also top notch, so I can only recommend you going.

2 days in Noto (2 Nights)

Noto has become quite popular thanks to the Netflix show ‘Chef’s Table’ and its infamous Caffe Sicilia. This is a cafe dating from the 1800s serving unpretentious pastries, granita and gelato. We loved it, but we also loved many other spots lesser known in the town for which you didn’t have to cue for.

Our favorite restaurant was Manna and we would suggest you going for dinner as the town lives up après working hours.

Now what we loved the most about Noto wasn’t precisely its baroque town, but rather the nature surrounding it. The Cavagrande canyon is an unspoilt gem, one that only few locals know about and explore. We followed some online instructions we found to get to a set of natural ponds withing the canyon and not only we found them, but we were also alone. Alone in this nature paradise. That memory will stay with us forever.

Another thing we loved about Noto was our stay at Valle degli Dei. A lemon farmhouse 5 minutes drive away from Noto that will make you feel you are the owner of a beautiful villa in Southern Italy. The sunsets at the house were pretty special, and so was the field of lemon trees.

2 days in Ortigia (1 Night)

You may have heard of Ortigia because of its famous candles. Funny thing is, these were not created by an Italian family, but rather an English lady who fell in love with the city and decided to create a soap and fragance empire around it. Ortigia has its shop in town but theirs items are now accessible globally.

Putting this aside, Ortigia is a little island off Siracusa, Sicily’s old capital. Once again its baroque style blooms through its little streets, and the Cathedral, buiilt on top of an old Greek Temple, is worth a visit. Ortigia has paramount options for dinner but surprisingly not so many for a swim, despite being an island.

However, you can take a boat trip around the island and visit its nearby caves, where you’ll be able to hop on and off the boat for a bit of a dip.

Our favorite restaurant in town was The Wine Assassin (we also LOVED the name)

Our favorite gelati was in Il Cucchiaino and our favorite granita in Pasticceria Artale

The last stretch: 3 days in Taormina (2 Nights)

Taormina is just postcard perfect. Some may say it is the most touristy of the southern side cities, and they may be true. That does not deny its beauty though. From the Greco-Roman amphitheatre to the grottos and beatufiul bays by the sea, this ancient villa has lots to offer.

Food is beyond exceptional and the décor gave us lots of Positano vibes; we were instantly enchanted. Calid colours and lots of lemon print everywhere, is this the Italian idea of heaven?

Foodie Monsters must visit Tischi Toschi (a favorite of Ottolenghi’s) for lunch and fashion lovers must have coffee at Bam Bar.

Dinner at Kitse is essential, but not without a glass of Aperol Spritz at the terrace of the Grand Timeo Hotel for sunset. We had a nightcap at Morgana Lounge Bar and it was fabulous.

If weather allows, we would suggest you finishing your trip with a hike to Mt Etna, one of the oldest and most active volcanos in Europe. Unfortunately (or not), the volcano has been quite active lately and so we couldn’t do this activity, but if you can, then we recommend using this tour guide.

Happy travels careless readers, and stay safe!

TCB xx

An Italian affair - Venice

Venice, Venice, Venice...Couldn't find a better timing to talk about this beautiful city considering that Mr & Mrs Clooney celebrated their nuptials there so recently! Venezia is one of the most romantic and charming places in the world, and perfect for a weekend getaway. My boyfriend and I decided to spend our last days of holidays there and the place does not deceive.

Starting by its architecture and followed by the colourful little alleys and the gorgeous food, its offerings are limitless. If you are planning to stay there for a couple of days (as we did), I suggest you do the following:

1. The Grand Canal. There are two options for you to do it: by foot or by boat. Doing it by foot might seem very time consuming but I can tell you it is totally doable. You need to remember the city centre itself is quite small!

We did the foot path to discover the main area and it was perfect. Starting from Cannaregio area, you can walk all the way until Piazza San Marco, the main highlight of Venice. The path includes going through the canal bridges and Venice's labyrinthic streets, passing through Santa Croce, San Polo and Rialto neighborhoods, until you get to the Basilica di San Marco.

Piazza San Marco is stunning. There are plenty of posh cafés (with an orchestra playing all sorts of music), and if you are up for an experience and you don't mind splashing the cash I suggest you having a capuccino and some sweets at Café Florian.

Now coming back to discovering the Grand Canal. As I said, you could do it by foot or by boat. And as any other tourist, I wouldn't miss the oportunity to jump into a boat or a gondola to see the highlights of the City. If you are on a budget, a good option is to take a Vaporetto (their main public transport, €8/hour) from the train station to Piazza San Marco, and do the foot path from there.

2. Shopping. Of course, I couldn't miss talking about shopping! If you are in need of accessories, you are at the right place. Venice is known by its good fabric (looove their leather bags) and by its glass (make sure you get some murano glass jewellery).

3. Cicchetti and wine. There are plenty of places you could stop to indulge some good food & wine (and Prossecco, of course). In Santa Croce you've got Al Prossecco, one of Lonely Planet's favourites wine bar. Here you'll be able to taste natural-process wines and prosecco for a very decent price. Its location is quite local, which gives the place a nice touch.

However, my favourite place was Cantina do Spade in San Polo. We passed through this place several times while walking around the city and every single time it was so busy and lively that we couldn't resist going in. They serve fresh ciccheti (italian tapas) that vary from a wide range of seafood to very yummy veggie fritters. And bare with me, a glass of prosecco is 2€! What else could you ask for.

In Rialto you'll find plenty of touristy stalls selling you venetian hats, masks, and murano glass. But you will also find a beautiful local market selling fresh fish and food. Additionally, Rialto is probably the best place to rent a gondola.

4. Take a ride on a Gondola. You need to be aware that the starting fee for a gondola ride is €80, which to me is a complete rip-off. However, if you've travelled all the way to Venice, and you are only there for two days, you will want to do it! Specially if you go there with your partner. So if you are ok spending 80€ for a 30min ride, then just go for it. Another option is to find another couple that is interested in doing it too and share the ride with them (cheeky, cheeky).

5. Gelato. There's no need to say that every trip to Italy needs to include at least one coffee and one gelato per day (or is it just me?).  My favourite place in Venice for ice cream was withoug a doubt Suso Gelatoteca. There are plenty of flavours to choose, the portionts are gigantic, they taste wonderfully and the price is very reasonable, so that's a 10 for me!

To conclude, we've got: a beautiful scenery, delicious food, lots of romanticism, and a perfect weekend away.

Do you need anything else to make up your mind and go?

TCB x

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Wearing Uterque LBD (old, similar here), Zara chunky sandals (sold out), and Black Mini Satchel Bag (sold out, similar here)

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Wearing: Zara floral dress (sold out, similar here and here) and Bosanova Gold Flats (sold out, similar here)