Potentino, a walk through living traditions

´Italy has given me so much, I ought to do the same’, Charlotte tells me.

She is the owner of Castello di Potentino, an ancient castle dating from the 10th century and hidden within Monte Amiato, in the heart of the Tuscan Valley. 

It was only 30 minutes since I met Charlotte that I knew she was a strong and determined woman. A tall, straight short hair lady with striking blue eye glasses. Very Italian style I would say, despite herself being British. It’s been 30 years since she moved to Italy and she’s been cultivating and nurturing the lay of the Tuscan land ever since.

‘We had a previous home, but we sold it and bought this ruined castle’. It is clear this medieval beast is her biggest passion and personal project. A once crumbled castle now turned into a living palace to restore Etruscan traditions. I couldn’t think of a better idea. 

Potentino is special. 

We arrived here on a dark and eerie night, and we thought we had got lost. Google Drive was telling us we were a minute away from our destination, but there were no signs of Potentino in any direction. Suddenly, there it was. Low lid yet showing its grandeur, rustic stone walls facing us. Cersei and Otto, the house dogs, welcomed us at the entrance and shortly after, somebody opened the door. Hello, you found us! 

We were greeted, and our story began.  

As we walk into this long-lived estate, I get quickly captivated by the amount of art, books and crockery laying around. One can tell that many have passed through Potentino, and the house still captures its passing stories. Publishers, artists, filmmakers and musicians, they all have lived and left a piece of history here. 

Traditions of wine and olive oil making, which were common in the area since almost 3000 years ago, are also alive at Potentino. I’ve been told that thanks to the golden valley that is Monte Amiato, we are in a highly fertile, volcanic area, which has gifted Potentino with a variety of wines. 

One evening before dinner, we are lucky to get a VIP pass. We tried not one but eight different wines from Charlotte’s latest batch. From easy drinking pinot noir rose to dense red San Giovese. It was a kaleidoscopic experience.

And it doesn’t end here, Charlotte is determined to keep the Etruscan heritage alive and she is set on being kind to the planet whilst at it, aiming for zero waste and respecting the local community. 

As days go by in this fairy tale fortress, we experience farmers from the neighboring town make cheese in front of us, cheese that we eat for lunch; polyphonic singers enjoying Potentino wine whilst chanting Etruscan songs and songs from World War I, and acclaimed food writers teaching us how to make and write about pasta and the joys of life. We are enduring the beauty of Tuscany and its unconventional history.

As I write to you, the sun is shining and my body feels heavy, despite a light breeze passing through. I can feel my soft skin burning, and the seasons changing. The leaves are dancing like shining diamonds changing color under a beaming light. Potentino is in the background, and I already feel part of its tales, too.