A Road Trip Through Sicily

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If you are reading this post is because you are thinking about travelling to Italy and are wondering what route is best to do a roadtrip in Sicily. The answer? It doesn’t matter! Whether you head north to Palermo or south to Catania, you are guaranteed going to have a delightful time.

Now, if you are into beautiful beaches, relax and good food, then the northern side of the island will be better suited for you. If you would like to add some culture and history to the mix, then the southern side will be best.

We did our own research before starting our trip and the northern side of the island tends to get more tourism. We are rebels who like to go against the current, so we voted for a southern roadtrip full of culture, history, great food, and great nature (and of course, some beaches too!).

Thinking you would like to do the same roadtrip?

Then check below for our 2-week itinerary here!

24 hours in Palermo

You may have read that if you want to do a Sicilian roadtrip you must choose between visiting the northern side or the southern side as otherwise it is too much to fit in very little time. We agree. However, there are many flights to Catania and when ours got cancelled last minute, we had to act quickly or cancel our holidays all together.

Truth is, things turned out for the best. We ended travelling to Palermo before starting our southern roadtrip and we loved it so much that we would suggest you do this too.

Palermo is the capital of Sicily and it is full of history. From the Romans to the Spanish, to the history of mafia, there’s a lot to talk about in this city. As newbies, we decided to talk a Free Walking tour (this one here) and we couldn’t recommend it enough. The guide was very lively and gave us lots of tips on where to eat and what else to do. Our favorite spot was the Piazza of Quatro cantos and all its symbolism, along with the Cattedrale de Palermo. Do not miss these out.

Our favorite comfort food was eaten at Caffe del Kassaro and the best cocktails were drunk at Galleria delle Vittorie

Our favorite Gelati was eaten at Cappadonia Gelati

Our favorite shop was Coffee Panormus, where you can stock up on beautiful ceramics and handmade Sicilian Coffa Bags.

3 days in Agrigento (2 Nights)

Agrigento is very cute. Tourists tend to spend one night here as there is not much to do other than visiting the Valley of the temples, but we loved giving this old village more time to be explored so we would recommend you doing the same.

We arrived after lunch and decided to visit the Agrigento’s old village. The highlight was the nun’s monastery where you can buy some homemade pistachio and nut cookies that are to die for. You can then head to the Turkish steps, a white cliff beach, for an afternoon dip. Warning: as the rock has started to become lose, the government has blocked entry to this area. However! We saw plenty of Italians passing over the fence and so we followed them and had a pleasant time in what was pretty much a desert beach. Bottom line, be careful, but go ahead and visit the area. We then packed our stuff and had a well deserved Aperol Spritz whilst seeing the sun set at Lounge Beach Bar few steps away.

The next day was all about the Valley of the Temples. You’ll need about 3-4 hours to do it, so make sure you have a hat with you and plenty of water as it gets hot in here! We also recommend getting a guide or the audio guide, it was very explanatory and worth its 5€ cost.

To wrap up, we had an excellent restful time at Masseria Agnello, a farmhouse of dreams (I would get married there!) before heading for another sunset at Giardonello Beach

Best dinner time in Agrigento was at Sal8 and best pizza at Trattoria Terra&Mare but if you want breathtaking views of the Valley of the Temple and a Michelin-guide restaurant, then we recommend Il Re di Girgenti (wow!!).

Our favorite Gelati was eaten at Le Cuspidi

We stayed at B&B Le Terraze di Pirandello and it was central, with a beautiful rooftop and a yummy breakfast (included in the price). If you are ready to splash the Hotel Athena is breathtaking, but you will be far away from the city center!

4 days in Modica (3 Nights)

Modica is a dreamy ancient villa where old is already meeting new. In here, not only you’ll find out about how the Sicilians make chocolate (that is, using a method dating back to the Aztecs), but also incredible home made food, Michelin-star restaurants, cheap and cheerful wine and cocktail bars and the most incredible baroque cathedral in Southern Sicily, Il Duomo di San Giorgio.

We stayed at B&B Il Giardino dei Mandarini and we couldn’t recommend it enough. Affordable prices, a big room and an excellent breakfast overlooking a beautifully green patio, where you’ll chat to an old Italian chap who serves you breakfast every morning. What else could you ask for? Also location is great, near to our favorite wine bar Rappa Enoteca (side note: the food is also great).

On our way from Agrigento to Modica we had a pit stop at Villa Romana del Casale, a Roman villa that keeps the largest and most varied Roman mosaics in the world. It’s a 20-min detour from your route, but so worth it.

On our first full day in Modica, we decided to explore the beach and headed to Marina di Modica, where we had a relaxing lunch at Modica Beach Resort. One our way back, we visited Scicli. Scicli is another town renown for its baroque architecture. Similarly to Modica and Ragusa, its beauty is palpable all over the city, but is at its best in the churches. If you are into fashion and gelati like I am, then you’ll love this town. Probably the best when it comes to Italian fashion in the island and Nivera was a fantastic choice for icecream :)

One our second day in Modica, we decided to venture out to Chiaramonte Gulfi, based on Lonely Planet’s recommendation. However, we didn’t find anything interesting here. The only thing worth noting about this town is its garden overlooking the vast fields and the winery Locanda Gulfi, 10 minutes drive away from the city. The food and service there were excellent, and so was the wine tasting (3 wines for 15€!) and the subsequent stay at the pool overlooking the vineyard.

Ragusa was our last stop on day 4 and definitely the most breathtaking. It is an exceptional town and a MUST on your trip. This village has 18 sites that are UNESCO Heritage and walking around its ancient streets is like re-living its past. We parked the car in the newer part of Ragusa, and started our walking path from Cattedrale di San Giovanni Batista up to Giardini Ibla.

The view of the old Ragusa along this path was spectacular (with some GoT vibes) and the food we proceeded to have for lunch at Camuri even more. Unpretentious and delicious food and 5-star service. Drinks were also top notch, so I can only recommend you going.

2 days in Noto (2 Nights)

Noto has become quite popular thanks to the Netflix show ‘Chef’s Table’ and its infamous Caffe Sicilia. This is a cafe dating from the 1800s serving unpretentious pastries, granita and gelato. We loved it, but we also loved many other spots lesser known in the town for which you didn’t have to cue for.

Our favorite restaurant was Manna and we would suggest you going for dinner as the town lives up après working hours.

Now what we loved the most about Noto wasn’t precisely its baroque town, but rather the nature surrounding it. The Cavagrande canyon is an unspoilt gem, one that only few locals know about and explore. We followed some online instructions we found to get to a set of natural ponds withing the canyon and not only we found them, but we were also alone. Alone in this nature paradise. That memory will stay with us forever.

Another thing we loved about Noto was our stay at Valle degli Dei. A lemon farmhouse 5 minutes drive away from Noto that will make you feel you are the owner of a beautiful villa in Southern Italy. The sunsets at the house were pretty special, and so was the field of lemon trees.

2 days in Ortigia (1 Night)

You may have heard of Ortigia because of its famous candles. Funny thing is, these were not created by an Italian family, but rather an English lady who fell in love with the city and decided to create a soap and fragance empire around it. Ortigia has its shop in town but theirs items are now accessible globally.

Putting this aside, Ortigia is a little island off Siracusa, Sicily’s old capital. Once again its baroque style blooms through its little streets, and the Cathedral, buiilt on top of an old Greek Temple, is worth a visit. Ortigia has paramount options for dinner but surprisingly not so many for a swim, despite being an island.

However, you can take a boat trip around the island and visit its nearby caves, where you’ll be able to hop on and off the boat for a bit of a dip.

Our favorite restaurant in town was The Wine Assassin (we also LOVED the name)

Our favorite gelati was in Il Cucchiaino and our favorite granita in Pasticceria Artale

The last stretch: 3 days in Taormina (2 Nights)

Taormina is just postcard perfect. Some may say it is the most touristy of the southern side cities, and they may be true. That does not deny its beauty though. From the Greco-Roman amphitheatre to the grottos and beatufiul bays by the sea, this ancient villa has lots to offer.

Food is beyond exceptional and the décor gave us lots of Positano vibes; we were instantly enchanted. Calid colours and lots of lemon print everywhere, is this the Italian idea of heaven?

Foodie Monsters must visit Tischi Toschi (a favorite of Ottolenghi’s) for lunch and fashion lovers must have coffee at Bam Bar.

Dinner at Kitse is essential, but not without a glass of Aperol Spritz at the terrace of the Grand Timeo Hotel for sunset. We had a nightcap at Morgana Lounge Bar and it was fabulous.

If weather allows, we would suggest you finishing your trip with a hike to Mt Etna, one of the oldest and most active volcanos in Europe. Unfortunately (or not), the volcano has been quite active lately and so we couldn’t do this activity, but if you can, then we recommend using this tour guide.

Happy travels careless readers, and stay safe!

TCB xx