A 2-week Road Trip Through Baja California

It feels as if it was yesterday when we came out of that Madrid-Los Cabos flight and embarked ourselves into new Mexican adventures. Marlene, Alba and I weren’t truly aware of what we were about to experience, or how many friends we would make on this trip, for that matter. Friends that are very dear to us, still to this date.

The year was 2021, Easter Holidays, and the pandemic was still amongst us. Many of our friends or colleagues looked down on us for even traveling at this point, but we were tired. We had been working non-stop for almost two years. We needed a change, time to recharge, time to be together. We logged off our laptops as we boarded on that plane to Mexico on a Friday afternoon and didn’t look back. The holiday mood hadn’t sinked in yet, but we were excited.

12 hours later and a few movies behind us, we landed in Los Cabos. Our 4X4 car was awaiting and it was time for us to shake things off for the better. 2 weeks circuling Baja California Sur, also known as the ‘boot’ of Baja, ahead of us. Oh, the thrill of it. We have heard Baja is charming, full of beautiful sea creatures and desert like surroundings. Gorgeous food and gorgeous people inside out. It was time to get on the road and get this party started.

We would do it all over again. And that’s why we are giving you the tour, so that you can do it, too.

 

First Weekend in Los Cabos (2 nights)

Landing and spending the weekend in Los Cabos was certainly memorable. However, I would not say Cabo San Lucas nor Cabo San Jose are truly representative of the Baja culture, nor even the people.

Los Cabos are a fun weekend destination for those seeking sun, margaritas and partying until til the sunrises. It’s certainly not for the heart fainted, and whilst we enjoyed our time there, it was probably our least favorite of all of our stops in BCS. Having said that, there’s plenty you can do here. Our recommendations:

• Stay at Bahia Hotel Beach House

• Eat & Drink til the sun sets at SUR Beach House

• Grab a Sunset Whale boat Tour with any of the many tour operators in front of SUR (they are there until 5pm)

• Taco your way into the night at La Lupita Taco & Mezcal

• Continue into dangerous fun at Vas que vuelas Mezcaleria

• Dance the night away at many of the clubs available! There are options for all tastes, from low key salsa bars to Ibiza-size clubbing by the beach side

Cabo Pulmo National Park (2 nights)

Cabo Pulmo is Baja’s best kept secret. Many will come to Baja and never even enter it. We advise you against that thought. Much to our surprise, Cabo Pulmo was a haven for wildlife. The biggest and oldest cactus I’ve ever seen where here. The most deserted paradise beaches I’ve ever seen where here. The most incredible shabby chic stay I’ve ever been in was also here. Southern-style bungalows with crystal clear waters and desert like hills. A dream, and our first pinch-me moment of the holidays. Our recommendations here:

• Stay at Baja Bungalows

• Dive at Pulmo Beach Resort Dive Center

• Eat & Drink at Tito’s; though if you have an amazing place to stay, we would recommend you stock up on groceries and just enjoy living the desert life for a few days. Cabo Pulmo is a peaceful place to connect with nature. Sit back and relax.

La Ventana & La Paz (4 nights)

La Paz is the capital of Baja California Sur and the biggest city you'‘ll find around BCS. A hub for business wo/men and adventurers alike, la Paz will serve many purposes. I got my diving certification here and I could not speak highly enough of the care and attention I received here. If you don’t have a purpose in mind, we suggest 1-2 nights here whilst visitng nearby beach towns, and 1-2 nights in laid-back La Ventana, a kite-surfers paradise.

Whilst in La Paz:

• Get up early and hike from Playa Escondida to Playa Balandra, one of the most scenic walks and white sand beaches I have ever seen

• Have a Drink at Harker Board afterwork, this is where most travellers and locals go

• Taco your way into the night at Taco Fish La Paz or if you’d like a different cuisine, visit Paciana for an italian pizza and wine kind of night

• Refresh yourself with homemade icecream at Michoacan at any time of the day

• Dive with Cortez Expeditions. Nor only they are attentive, they care about the marine life. Plus they will stop to spot animals any time. We saw so many whales on our expeditions, I still dream of it.

• Swim with Sea Lions at Isla Espiritu Santo. You can also snorkle or dive, if you prefer it. This was by far one of the most incredible experiences I’ve ever had.

Whilst in La Ventana:

• Kite or windsurf by El Sargento Beach

• Celebrate your water activities with a refreshing beer and delicious asian-mex snacks at La Tuna BCS

• Drink local beer at Joe’s Garage Brewery

• Dine jumbo seafood at Marlin

• Stay at VentusBay

La Ventana is magical place and one of those spots that will make you fell in love with Baja. It’s rugged, laid-back and enchanting. A bit too windy to my taste at times, but nevertheless full of gorgeous people and hip but relaxed places to hang out and let the time go by. After a few days here, it was time for our final destination before heading home.

Todos Santos (2 nights)

Todos Santos was the cherry on top of our trip. Don’t let the modern and perhaps more ‘american’ style fool you, this is a charming if you care to explore it further.

Known as the ‘artists’ town of Baja, Todos Santos where painters and artists alike come to show. There is plenty of great restaurants on offer and we had the best night out of our trip whilst staying here. Our recommendations:

• Caffeine yourself at Doce Cuarenta Casa de Cafe - There’s a few in town but we suggest heading to the roastery for a full-experience

• Shop til you drop in the main street in town, but make sure you stop at Nomad Chic

• Brunch at Bleu, tucked away behind an art gallery

• Dinner at Jazamango

• Drinks at Jardin Alquimia

• Drive to Cerritos Beach and try the Chocolatera clams by the seafront, a local delicacy

• Watch the sunset at The Green Room whilst listening to live music barefoot in the beach

And just like that…it was time to go home. Sad because it wass over, but happy, and above all thankful, because it happened.

TCB xx

10 Things To Know About Travelling To Cuba

• Travelling direct to Cuba (from the UK) is only available via a packaged holiday online. If you want to book flights only you’ll need to get on the phone with Virgin (the only airline that flights direct) and sort everything on the phone.

• You will need a visa before entering the country. This usually is provided to you by the airline but please double check as you won’t be allowed in the country otherwise.

• You can only get cuban currency once you are in the country, and it’s better if you get cash in Havana as ATMs get scarce when you travel through the country.

• Internet is extremely limited. You will only have access to it in public parks and international luxury hotels. In order to get access to internet, you’ll have to get “internet cards” which you can buy for USD4 either at these hotels or for USD2 at the bank or postal services. These cards will give you internet access for ~1hr

• Staying at private “casas” (cuban apartments) is a must and part of the experience. Not only you’ll get to see how cubans live but also will get to interact with the local community and live in colonial-style apartments during your stay. If I can only recommend you one thing for this trip is that you stay at Miriam and Sinai’s Casa in Old Havana. This was by far the best decision we made on this trip. The girl’s hospitality was fantastic (Miriam is like a Cuban Mamma!), and throughout the trip they hooked us up with other casas when and where we needed. They also helped us get private salsa dance lessons and booked us in the hottest restaurants in Havana.

• You can travel the country on frenzy public buses (‘viazul’). Whilst a little bit tricky to buy online, it is definitely worth spending the time doing so as the seats get booked up pretty quickly and you wouldn’t want to get stranded while in transit! They are the only cheap and cheerful option unless you book yourself a car, which is advise against on (they are very old cars and they tend to break down unexpectedly), or a private taxi.

• There is a pre-set itinerary that the government seems to want you to follow: Havana-Trinidad-Vinales and if you try to do it the other way around is slightly more complicated to achieve. Nevertheless, we are stubborn and manage to do so on public bus very successfully!

• Salsa lessons in Havana or Trinidad are a nice taste of Cuba. Cubans are extremely friendly (and patient) and they will help you get some of their moves in you if they can. Both Havana and Trinidad are known for their salsa, there are a few clubs were to practice. However, if you are a beginner, I would start by getting private classes as the clubs can be a little intimidating!

• Mojito is the national drink and you’ll find it quicker than water. And cheaper than £1.

• Food all over the country is quite average compared to a westernised palate. But you have to acknowledge that they still live in socialism and food is scarce. Tourists get more food than locals and are making affordability of resources more difficult.

  Be kind! Safe Travels :)

Cuba Linda

GET HOOKED ON A 14-DAY HOLIDAY IN CUBA

Check out TCB’s guideline on how to spend two-weeks in this untouched paradise.

Go back to the 50s in Old Havana

The beauty of Cuba doesn’t rely on what to see but rather on the people and their lifestyle. Relaxed and content, the Cubans are known for their happy take on life. I am sure many of them would like things to run differently, but at least they try to stay positive, and I could not relate more to that.

You can see Havana in very little time, but you won’t FEEL Havana unless you spend 3-5 days in it. The rhythm of the city is something that you need to get used to it, and we loved it.

Walking through the Capitol and immersing ourselves into the streets of Old Havana was extremely fun. We stopped at many key spots along the way, including El Floridita and La Bodeguita del Medio, bars frequently visited by Hemingway in his visits to Cuba, as well as other lesser known spots. Beware, these places (like Tropicana and Buena Vista Social Club) are nice, but are also extremely touristy and therefore you’ll have to cue to stay in a very small bar when there’s plenty others lesser known and as good. Pick your choices wisely!

Of course, there are a few museums you can visit and that are worth visiting: Museo de la Revolucion gives you a great overview of Cuba’s history (though most of it it’s in Spanish so make sure you get a guide) and the Museum of Fine Arts is also worth checking out. Just make sure you check opening times as we missed a few museums because of this!

Food-wise, there are two musts in Old Havana: La Guarida and Michifu. Both in the same street! The first one is in an old colonial house and has kept its appearance to make it look more decadent. The second is much more contemporary and hosts la creme de la creme of the city. A restaurant for every vibe.

Another fun thing to do whilst in the city is renting a 50s car. Surprisingly to most, you’ll see these cars all over Cuba. One would have thought that such gas-heavy cars would be extinguished by now but they are all there! Expensive and probably terrible for the planet but damn we loved riding on it.

Now, if you like dancing and/ or cuban music (probably one of the reasons why you are visiting the country?) then you need to visit Club 1830 by the Malecon. This is a restaurant during the day but at night it becomes THE place to be for cuban salsa lovers. Even if you are a beginner, you’ll have fun people watching.

Immerse yourself in the tobacco fields of Vinales

Viñales is quite a touristy town (most locals live of tourism here) but you can’t leave the country without stopping here.

Viñales serves as a gateway to the Sierra de los Organos mountains and the Viñales Valley. The valley is known for its steep-sided limestone hills, known as mogotes, and the infamous tobacco fields where Cuban cigars are made.

The most fun you’ll have here is by hiking the valley and visiting the tobacco fields. You’ll need a guide to get to these places and you’ll probably have to haggle, but it will be worth it. Just make sure they are up for a good walk!

We had to persuade our guide A LOT but in the end we had an amazing time and we ended up engaging with Cubans living up in the hills. Sipping coffee and talking tales with them was certainly a highlight.

Go fully isolated into Playa Larga and Playa Giron

I must warn you: I don’t think we would rush to go back to Playa Larga. It was extremely secluded, difficult to get to, and the promised beautiful turquoise beaches without the fuss of tourists were not a reality. Not only because the beaches did not look like in the pictures but also because the customer service there (at least in the casa were we stayed) was below average.

However, if you like to get yourself immerse into true Cuban life, this is certainly your spot. There are few tourists in town, all restaurants are extremely local and you get fresh fish from the sea and live music at the main square almost every night. Why would you need more? Sun, Food and relaxing time. No stress to be found here!

Side-note: Los Cayos is where the most beautiful beaches are in Cuba, but unfortunately due to international tourism, Cubans are not allowed in, which is extremely sad and why we recommend visiting other parts of the country (unless this is the only purpose of your holiday).

Cienfuegos, home of Son Cubano

Translated to “100 fires”, Cienfuegos is a lovely city to visit on your way to Trinidad. Many argued you can skip it but we in fact had a great time there.

Cienfuegos is very cultural. Cafes and live music are bursting at every corner and one of the key figures of Son Cubano, Benny More, was born here.

More over, the city’s architecture is worth admiring, rich and colonial with grand promenades.

Hot spots in town include The Yatch Club where you’ll have amazing live music and dance whilst seeing the sunset and Jose Marti Park, where you will find most of the museums and theatres. Worth a visit is the Museo de las Artes Palacio Ferrer (which has a stunning rooftop overlooking the city) and the Teatro Tomas Terry.

Stay at The Heart of Cuban Music and Dance, Trinidad

This city has so much to offer. We absolutely loved it and were gutted to stay only for two nights. If you can, we recommend you to stay for at least 3-5 days.

During the day, Trinidad seems sleepy; but that is only on the surface. Only 15minutes away (by taxi drive) you have great beaches to spend the day on or if you are more into adventures, 15 minutes away you can also access to beautiful waterfalls at Parque El Cubano.

One thing is key: when the sun sets, be sure to be back in city, as Trinidad is at its best when the sun goes down. Music bursts everywhere, especially in the main square where lots of live musicians will fight for your attention. People salsa dancing everywhere and generally a super fun atmosphere. We. Loved. It

And if you don’t want the night to finish, you can head to the super discoteque inside the caves uphill, Disco Ayala. Definitely on the commercial and taky side, but worth the hike as its quite unique.

Lastly, taste Havana with a twist

To finish up your trip, head to the newest part of Havana, where hip Fabrica del Arte hosts the funkiest art and cultural events in town. Next to it there is the restaurant El Cocinero, the place to be for dinner. Make a reservation in advance or prepare for queuing, it is a hot spot!

TCB xx

Cusco I am IN LOVE!

Postcards from the Saccred Valley

Welcome Amazone

I am so happy I went to the Amazon jungle. For a city girl like moi this was a bloody big step!

 They say you need to go far in to have an authentic jungle experience, but for me, being an hour away from the city (about 40km) into the jungle was more than enough.

 I must say I was also psyched when I saw I was going to sleep in a wooden cabin and not in a bed and a mosquito net. How are you even able to fall sleep in the latter?

 Despite the fact many travellers told me the jungle is not a virgin until you cross more than 50km, I still got to see a lot of creatures. As a first experience, that was more than enough. Tarantulas, Aligators, Monkeys, Tucans...SLOTHS! PINK DOLPHINS! Saw them all. Also, plenty of insects, ofc. No joke I got about 30 bites in one night. DUH. Deet doesn't really work in the jungle peeps, even if it is a 90% one.

Another thing I enjoyed while there was the long canoe rides on the calm river Amazon. Saying hi to locals from boat to boat going home (that is the further inside the jungle) was pretty fun. We also visited a tribe but it was quite sanitised as a lot of tribes live off the government payments these days. Interesting fact: despite knowing about the city, the indigenes prefer living in the wild. They think the city hasn't got much on offer!

By the way, food at the jungle is YUM YUM YUM. I'd probably highlight the chonta (palm tree leaves), which they call the spaghetti of the jungle; and carambola, a very sweet fruit shaped as a star, as my two fave things while there. MMM, my mouth is watering just thinking about it.

You could also try the piranhas we fished! The locals eat pretty much any fish from the river and apparently is very tasty. It's fresh! I think my head could not cope with the idea, so maybe next time.

Oh yes, there will be a next time.

TCB x

Postcards from Lima

Wonders of The World

 Words cannot express how astonishing this place is.

 I am not one to believe in supernatural vibes but visiting Machu Picchu (which means 'Old Mountain') and being there for a day was an unforgettable experience, and it definitely made me feel something.

 I started my day at 5,30am (bugger!) with a cold shower at what is probably the worst place I have ever stayed in my life (called Los Caminantes, do not ever go there!) and head to get a powerful breakfast. Not only was I going to walk a lot through this Inca civilisation but I was also climbing Wayna Picchu, the hill behind the old town at 2.600m above sea level. BLIMEY! It was so rewarding, though. I was lucky enough to get a ticket to go there as only 400 people a day are entitled to trek it. To be honest with you, I liked that! It is because not many people can access what it used to be an observational lab that it is in pristine condition. And guess what! You can see Machu Picchu from the top. HA!

 As I went up the perfectly shaped rock stairs (though steepest and smallest rock stairs ever, even for me!), I felt I reached heaven. Or so I thought, cause I was surrounded by white clouds and I could not see, smell or taste anything else than nature. I couldn't have had it any better.

Walking down the mountain was tough as my legs were like jelly but I managed! My body was hyper for more action and so I got a guide to explain me what all those beautiful inca ruins were. After it I took some time to explore and it was fantastic. So many places to stop and stare and just take in what it is in front of you: one of the few wonders left in this world.

TCB X

Huacachina Oasis, Peru

Just few hours away of Lima by busit's the beautiful oasis of Huacachina.

Despite it's considered touristy by many, this place is still a gem even for Peruvians, which spent their Easter holidays there.

Huacachina is an oasis in the middle of the peruvian desert, the xxx at xxx altitude. It is known because of its buggy rides on the desert and sandboarding. Should you need more excuses to go? Bumpy rides that felt like a themed park in the middle of nowhere, beautiful and colourful sunset and adrenaline shot by trying to sandboard. OH YES, PLEASE.

You probably won't need more than a day there, unless you use it as a link between other nearby cities. You can also spend some extra time just to chill and endure the entertainment that it provides: swimming pools, good food and partying.

I stayed at Banana's Adventure, which was great at first -great facilities, great service, swimming pool, lots of activities, great peeps- but my room was next to some sort of club and I literally could not sleep all night. BUMMER!

In any case, if you have some time to spare, this is defo what you should do!

P.S.: Please make sure you get there by Cruz del Sur bus, I've never experience such a fancy bus ride! Even better than some long-distance flights. There, I said it.

TCB x

WHAT I WORE:  

FOMO London Snake Leggings

H&M Sport Top

Stan Smith Adidas Trainers

Hot Spots in Lima City

I must admit spending time in Lima over the holidays was a lot of fun. Not only this city has lots of culture but lots of friendly people, great food and great fashion.

The fashionistas Sole, Anny and Jeani were the greatest hosts and they showed me around as if I was one of them. Everywhere we went was FAB and therefore you need to know about it.

Foodies out there, if you haven't been at least at one of Chef Gaston Acurio restaurants, then you haven't really tried the essence of Peru. Here people pay tribute to the Chef religiously. He was the one who brought back to the country the love for food and the curiosity to try new things, and his meals reflect it.

I suggest Panchita for anticuchos, Madame Tusan for chifas (that is fusion between Asian and Peruvian cuisine) or La Mar for great seafood dishes like ceviche.

However, there are other great options as well. Popular in Larcomar has a great seaside view and is perfect for a gals brunch; and so is Cosme in front of the beautiful store Isidra in San Isidro neighbourhood.

Speaking of shopping, I must admit Peru has great talents! I managed to meet in person the jeweller and shoe designer Ariana Santillana and she is such a babe! Not to mention her designs are super dreamy. If you are looking for minimal yet trendy items, she's your gal. If you are looking for something more querky/vintage...then you have Jessica Butrich. Watermelon bag? Check. Watermelon Heels? Check Check. And then you need a bikini, of course. For that, the one and only choice you should go for is Capittana.

There are many more designers worth having a look and they probably have a store in Miraflores or San Isidro, fashionista spots in the city.

Barranco is also a very hip neighbourhood. Mario Testino recently opened its own museum there! Not to mention the area is full of artists and street art. Yuppie.

All in all, you've got a couple of busy days in the city to go for.

I certainly enjoyed it. I hope you do too.

TCB xx

VIEW FROM POPULAR RESTAURANT IN LARCOMAR

CHOCLOS CON SALSA

ARIANA SANTILLANA ATELIER

COSME RESTAURANT, SAN ISIDRO

pulpo sellado, Quinua al pesto, crema de palta y sal de aceitunas

PUENTE DE LOS SUSPIROS, BARRANCO

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MARIO TESTINO MUSEUM, BARRANCO

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