Nyege Nyege: A Journey of Music, Adventure and Unforgettable Moments

The last quarter of the year is upon us and that only means on thing: Nyege Nyege is coming soon. Have you been thinking about going to this festival but are unsure about whether to go or not? I can’t emphasize it enough – it is a must. I loved Nyege Nyege. Despite ups and downs and some serious challenges with accomodation, this was one of the most memorable experiences of my life, and one that I would do ever and ever again.

It was in the midst of the winter lockdown in 2020, when the world seemed to have paused, that my fascination with Nyege Nyege festival took root. The festival had gotten traction thanks to the viral Youtube video of DJ Kampire’s Opening ceremony in the middle of the River Nile.

The festival in front of my eyes was a cultural melting pot, a fusion of traditional and moder sounds that resonated with me deeply. I was instantly hooked, in love. I wanted to be there, I needed to be there! I had to make it happen. And so I decided to follow the festival on socials in the hope that one day, I could also participate in such a wild adventure.

Almost a year later, I found myself walking from the tube to my work office when an Instagram story flashed before my eyes: Nyege Nyege tickets were now available. Excitement surged through my veins, and within moments, plans were set in motion. A quick call to the boyfriend and a few clicks on a clunky ticket website and were now proud owners of two passes to an adventure waiting to unfold.

FYI tickets costs $70/ person and $60/ person for 3-nights glamping. Pretty irresistible, right?

Since this was my first venture into West Africa and my first ever visit to Uganda, we decided to extend our trip and make it a 2-week holiday. Our journey would begin with the festival as the centerpiece but expand into a grand exploration of Uganda, from mountain gorillas in the South to mind-blowing waterfalls and a volcano hike in the North.

The 2022 Edition of the festival was marked to be special one. The organisers had decided to move the festival from the city in Jinja to the mystical forest of Itanda Falls, promising an experience like no other. I was so excited.

I remember vividly the first day of Nyege Nyege. Our morning was hectic; we had learned that Kampala has a fashion district where to get personalized outfits and so we wanted our very own attire for the festival. In a matter of 2 hours, we had picked our own fabrics and had a full outfit co-ord made for us. It was time to get to the festival grounds!

Unfortunately, creating these one-off pieces meant that we were delayed to take our bus to Itanda Falls. Boda-bodas, the Uber motorbikes of Uganda, attempted to get us there on time, but the first buses had already left. That was OK, we thought, we will make it in time for sunset, we thought.

The bus and road to Itanda Falls were an odyssey. Transportation had clearly been oversold and so we were pretty jammed between people and luggage in the bus. I took this as a funny situation, but after a few hours in the bus, it started to get a little bit uncomfortable. All part of the experience though.

Unfortunately, our hopes that we would make it to the festival grounds for sunset were not entirely true. The roads in Uganda are not in the most pristine state and so what usually would take 2hrs, here it took double the time.

We finally get to the site, and the bus leaves us on the road for a 10 minute walk to the entrance. Chaos and mayhem greeted us, and I loved it. If one thing is for sure, is that this festival is not for the heart fainted. There were a lot of people hustling in the street on our way into the festival. Hundreds of street vendors trying to sell you anything you may need, from water to sneakers, you name it. There’s not rest for the hustlers.

We finally get to the gate and the festival workers greet us in. We’ve made it, we are here! The excitement is palpable. We get told to walk further into the forest to collect our glamping bracelets. We walk in search of our camp, and that’s when it hits us. In essence, there was no camp. And certainly, no glamping. The promise of a luxurious camping experience turned into an unexpected challenges.

Our finished glamping hut

The camping area where you brought your own tents, or even the built-in tents was lovely. Fairly lights in, all pitch perfect. The promised glamping area, on the contrary, was a working site. The situation was beyond disbelief. We were reduced to try and finish our huts (made of wood) by finding wood in the floor and nailing it in with a screw and hammer. What happened?

We started talking to some people on the ground and finally understood the situation. Politics, lack of time and resources; unfortunately also some bad organisation. The festival was almost cancelled due to political turmoil and negativity around it. Many believe Nyege Nyege is a sex party because the words translate to ‘horny horny’ in Swahili, but it is not it. There was a lot of back and forth about the success of the festival, but in the end organisers won the battle and Nyege Nyege was going ahead. It just meant they weren’t prepared for it. At all.

We found ourselves fighting for bedding in the middle of the night, crying for help for somebody to finish our house and put a lock in it. There were no showers, and no toilets. Panic was starting to kick in but we had to choices: leave or move on and enjoy ourselves.

We decided on the later. We took the executive decision of keeping our valuables (money and passport) with us during the festival and just enjoy the time out of the campsite. We were here for the music, not for the campsite.

At the heart of it all was the festival itself- a kaleidoscope of sounds and rhythms that transcended borders and got everybody together, despite all the challenges abovementioned. From Nigerian afrobeats, South African amapiano, traditional Luganda music, to then electronic and techno, the music was a celebration of diversity. The imperfect setting of the forest only heightened the realization that perfection wasn't necessary for magic to happen. Dancing under the starlit sky, I felt a connection to the world, to the people around me, and to the music that united us all.

Despite the initial challenges and the accommodation fiasco, the festival was a testament to the human spirit's resilience. The chaos, the hustle, and the vibrant energy formed the backdrop to an experience that would forever hold a special place in my heart. The journey wasn't just about the music—it was about embracing the imperfections, finding joy in the unexpected, and leaving with a treasure trove of memories.

I also want to mention that breakfast onsite was spectacular, the coffee fabulous (I would dare to say better than festivals in Europe!) and the dining options on offer very tasty. In lieu of showers, we bathed in the source of the River Nile, which was refreshing and magical. We built friendships with fellow festivalgoers and danced into the night, finishing with a meat feast at The Meat Guy.

Was the experience at the camping shocking? Yes. Did that blur my experience of the festival? No. I would go there again a thousand times more.

P.S.: Since this edition of the festival got so much backlash for the accommodation fiasco in the forest, Nyege Nyege has now moved back to its original location in Jinja, where festival goers can stay in a hotel and move freely and easily in and out of the site.

Do not miss out, it’s an experience of a lifetime. One for all senses.